Californios · Mexican · SoMa, San Francisco
Californios: my first three-star Mexican, and it was in San Francisco
· SoMa, San Francisco · By Christian Van Der Henst · 5/5
Californios is a three Michelin star Mexican restaurant in SoMa, San Francisco, and it was my first three-star Mexican meal. If you love Mexican food, or you're Mexican, save up a bit and go.
I went to Californios, and I'm really glad that I waited. A lot of people had told me about it, and the fact that there's a three Michelin star Mexican restaurant in San Francisco makes it even more special, because of my connection to the city, my love for Mexican cuisine, and because someone is really doing this, super nice and super good. There's even a dessert with Guatemalan chocolate, a nixtamalized and piloncillo candied mandarin dipped in it, so it made me very proud to see some of those ingredients.
As much as I love Mexican food, I wasn't really looking for a tasting menu at that scale. Ever since Cala left San Francisco, that spot in my head felt a little lonely, even with great Mexican restaurants around like Elena's Mexican Restaurant, LoLo, Cantina Los Mayas and Colibrí. Then Californios got its third Michelin star, and the headline said a Mexican restaurant in San Francisco had earned it. A group of good friends made a reservation and we did the tasting together, which is probably how this place is meant to be enjoyed.
You walk up and find yourself next to the DNA Lounge, so the location feels a little odd. This is their second location. They've been around for more than a decade. The room is beautiful and the decor is right on point.
The service is just impressive. The whole staff were fantastic characters, explaining the plates in English and Spanish, talking about the different chiles and enjoying the pace with us. Before a course they brought out some of the ingredients so you could see what they were using, and you get a menu of what they're cooking that day. The ingredients are fresh and local, and every plate has its own story, from the flavor combinations to the tortillas.
Course by course
The menu that night
Sope
White Olotillo Blanco Masa Sope filled with Anasazi Beans, Whole Barlotti Beans, and a Sorana Bean Mousse. Topped with Californios Estate Caviar Made by Tsar Nicoulai.
They start the menu with a little sope and some caviar. Baller.
Tostada
Blue Masa Tostada, with Bluefin Tuna. Finished with Variations of Cold Smoked Nopales and Serrano Coins.
Flauta
White Olotillo Blanco Masa Flauta, Queso Fresco from Queso Salazar, New Potatoes, Roasted Hatch Chile, with Salsa Macha Jam, and Smoked Chive Crema.
This was so beautifully presented. The taste was even better.
Shrimp Aguachile
Kauai Shrimp Aguachile with Puya Chilies and Three Aguachiles. Sungold Tomato Aguachile with Chilhuacle Amarillo and Habanero. Green Tomato Aguachile with Serrano and Charred Green Onion. Smoked Early Girl Tomato Aguachile.
The aguachile was really memorable.
Abulón
Ceviche of Fresh Monterey Abalone, Served in its Shell with an Abalone Gelee, a Granizado Made of Fermented Carrot Juice, Serranos, and Kombu. Garnished with Succulents from the Garden at Meadowood.
The abalone was my second favorite.
Flan de Plátanos Asados
Grilled Banana Flan with a Jamón Serrano and Date Jus. Topped with Tsar Nicoulai's Estate Caviar and Plantain Chips.
Wow, the depth of flavor in those plantains.
Escabeches: Red Onion Xnipec Salsa, Lacto-Fermented Carrots, Lemon Pickled Serpent Cucumber and Fresh Limes.
Bacalao Negro
Sourdough Tortilla with a Mezcal Battered Local Black Cod, Grilled Poblano and Anaheim Pepper Salsa, Topped with a Huitlacoche & Corn Crema.
The tacos were probably my favorite part. You go here to have some of the most interesting tacos of your life, and this was one of the great tacos they were showing that night.
Pescado Tatemado en Estilo Matsukasa
Rockfish from Bodega Bay on a Hickory Gold Tortilla, served with Pipian Verde and a Grilled Peach and Chile Yahualica salsa.
The fish came a bit fried, and it was a good surprise. It reminded me of a great taco I love at LoLo.
Mole Californios
Our House Mole Paired with Smoked California Squab. Served with White Olotillo Blanco Tortillas and Smoked Squab Leg dusted in Chilhuacle Negro, Chile Negro, and Chile Martia.
It didn't have to be super old (a small nod to Pujol), but it definitely brought a lot of flavor. And thanks for the tortillas.
Santa Maria Style Rib Eye
Grilled Abatti Ranch Rib Eye from Imperial Valley California on a Tierra Black Masa Tortilla. Served with Heirloom Pinquito Beans, a Tomatillo Salsa and Blackberry Glaze.
The rib eye was my favorite dish of the night.
The desserts were on point.
Frutas
A celebration of corn from Brentwood. Fresh Corn Husk Granita, Corn and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, with a Hibiscus Huckleberry Coulis.
Alegría
Chocolate Alegria made with 75% Mexican Chocolate from Projecto Diaz. A Ganache and a Cremeux made with 75% Mexican Chocolate coming from Chiapas and toasted Feuilletine, Glazed with Black Cocao. Topped with Amaranth, Hidden Rose Apple, and Preserved Meyer Lemon. Finished with Marshall's Farm Bay Area Blend Honey.
I had the pleasure of understanding where this comes from and how important it is to Mexicans, reminding them of childhood memories.
Memento Mori, Chocolatl
And daily a man, set out the food for the ruler – two thousand kinds of various foods.
And when the ruler had eaten, the lords ate, and all the people from surrounding lands.
Then, in his house, Montezuma was served his chocolate – green, made of tender cacao; honeyed chocolate made with ground-up dried flowers – with green vanilla pods; bright red chocolate; orange-colored chocolate; rose colored chocolate; black chocolate; white chocolate.
- Nopales Paleta in Spun Sugar, Dusted with a Cactus and Serrano Tajin.
- Freshly Baked Empanada filled with Rum Banana and Dulce De Leche.
- Winters Fruit Tree Farm California Almond and Pixtle Ice Cream.
- White Chocolate 'Bubulubu' made with Preserved Passionfruit and Tonka Bean Marshmallow.
- White Chocolate Taco made with a Tierra Vegetables Farm Corn Shell, Raspberry Sorbet, and Lime Leaf Ice Cream.
- Nixtamalized and Piloncillo Candied Mandarin Dipped in Guatemalan Chocolate.
Aguas frescas
The meal opened with three aguas frescas: a strawberry hibiscus soda, a canary melon horchata with honey and Marcona almonds, and a guava and kiwi soda brightened with fresh lime.
Mezcal flight
They offer a wine pairing, but we went with the beer they pair with the first taco, plus the mezcal flight. I wasn't that impressed with the flight. My Mexican friends have probably spoiled me with really good mezcal at places like Mosto and Comal. Still, I like that they offer one.
Overall, it was a beautiful set of dishes. Sharing it with friends from Mexico and other foreigners made for a great evening. It isn't cheap, but between the decor, the service, the food and the pacing, it's a work of art. I'm really glad they got that third star, and I think they earned it.
If you're visiting Californios
- Where is Californios?
- 355 11th St, San Francisco, CA 94103, in SoMa. You walk up and find yourself next to the DNA Lounge, so the location feels a little odd.
- What should I order at Californios?
- It's a tasting menu, and you get a menu of what they're cooking that day. The tacos were probably my favorite part. The aguachile was really memorable.
- Is Californios worth it?
- It isn't cheap, but between the decor, the service, the food and the pacing, it's a work of art. If you love Mexican food, or you're Mexican, save up a bit and go.
Map and directions
Other reviews
- MICHELIN Guide: Californios
- Travels for Stars: Review: Californios - San Francisco
- SFGATE: Californios is 'the best Mexican restaurant in the world.' It only cost me $500.
- Tiny Urban Kitchen: Californios San Francisco
More places to eat in San Francisco: the CookFoodie San Francisco guide