
Californios
Californios in SoMa, San Francisco: a course-by-course walk through the three Michelin star Mexican tasting menu, from the aguachile to the tacos.
A collection of memorable meals and restaurant discoveries. These are the places I keep going back to -and think you should try too.

Californios in SoMa, San Francisco: a course-by-course walk through the three Michelin star Mexican tasting menu, from the aguachile to the tacos.

Noe Cafe on the Sanchez Slow Street, Noe Valley: a chill spot for meetings and coffee. Get the Breakfast Sandwich and avocado toast; beer later in the day.

Arrin Cuan in Antigua Guatemala: go for the Cuatro Caminos, four Guatemalan dishes. Jocón, pepián, subanik, hilachas, kak'ik. Where locals bring guests.

La Espiga, a family-run pintxos bar in San Sebastián: Tortillita with truffles, rollito de jamón, croquetas, and wine by the glass. Open 10 AM to 10 PM.

Sala de Despiece review, Madrid: the giant tomato, the Rolex, raw chuletón, and fried artichoke at the bar. Wines by the glass.

La Cuchara de San Telmo, San Sebastián: cochinillo skin, kokotxas, navajas. Tiny room, fast service, portions not cheap pintxos. Tue-Sun, closed Mon.

Arrosseria Antoni Rubies, Artesa de Lleida: Bib Gourmand roadside stop for arròs a la marinera and cordero ribs.

Cervecería Catalana review, Barcelona: no reservations, fast service, great energy. Order the jamón, navajas, pincho de solomillo, and crema catalana.

Geoboki Sikdang in Seoul serves charcoal-grilled pork, chewy kkeopdegi, grilled kimchi, and lunchtime soju near Kyung Hee University.

食令 SHABU at Taipei 101: live abalone, Iberico in the soup, and crab they clean for you. 4F luxury floor, next to Dior.

A love letter to Din Tai Fung: xiaolongbao, chilled cucumber salad, and the original Xinyi Road shop in Taipei, plus favorite branches worldwide.

El Chato is that Spanish corner that brings Madrid to the Mission. Tortilla española, navajas, jamón, chatos of natural wine, and vermut.

The Morris review, San Francisco (Mission / Potrero Flats): extraordinary duck, great bread, salads. Dinner reservations are easy to get.

Nasi lemak at The Coconut Club Beach Road near Arab Street and Masjid Sultan, with ayam goreng berempah, beef rendang, and homemade otah.

HK Lounge Bistro in SoMa, San Francisco: Hong Kong-style dim sum. Xiaolongbao, tender and flavorful pork buns, very attentive service. Small, so weekends get crowded.

Mijoté review, San Francisco: former Mission sushi bar, weekly four-course French prix fixe. Sit at the bar, love the bread, ask what wine is on today.

Tacolicious has a small mezcal bar next door in the Mission: Mosto. Pastor tacos from a proper trompo, and the pastor that the Mission gives.

China Live review, San Francisco Chinatown: xiaolongbao and dim sum in a big hall for groups. Cold Drinks Bar upstairs; Eight Tables is its own tasting menu.

Burma Love review, San Francisco: the Valencia branch is the best one. Get the tea leaf salad, coconut rice, a curry, and noodle soup at the round table.

La Taqueria review: my top burrito in San Francisco's Mission. Carne asada, supreme, no rice, extra guac. The Michelin line is long; come back for tacos.

Casa Escobar in Antigua Guatemala, one block from the parque central: get the Mar y Tierra and ask for the local lomito. Also Cayalá and Zona 10.

Le Palais review, Taipei: three-Michelin-star Cantonese duck at Palais de Chine. Pre-order 先知鴨 or 火焰片皮鴨 when you book.

Swan Oyster Depot review, San Francisco: fresh seafood on Polk Street since 1912. Get the Sicilian sashimi. No reservations; expect a line.

San Ho Won review: Michelin-star Korean BBQ in San Francisco's Mission. Galbi grilled for you. Hard to book; share it with 4 to 6 people.

Just outside Positano, Zass at Il San Pietro is a romantic Michelin dinner: the view, octopus with figs, and lemon tagliatelle.

Mister Jiu's: always go for the Liberty duck. $125 Peking duck banquet you pre-order. À la carte sells out. Chinatown, San Francisco.

Diacá in Cuatro Grados Norte, Guatemala City: tasting menu and brunch with grandpa. Huevitos revueltos chapines, sausage of beans. Now in Muxbal.

Rintaro review, San Francisco: the Mission izakaya that feels like Tokyo. Yakitori chicken skewers, daily specials, and a strong sake list. Book on Resy.

Caoba Farms, Antigua Guatemala: a farm and breakfast place with a mariposario and bees. Take a tuk tuk; closed Monday and Tuesday.

Tony's Pizza Napoletana: only 73 Margheritas a day in North Beach. You usually get one if you care. Golden Boy if you just want a slice.

Pujol in Polanco, Mexico City: Enrique Olvera's tasting menu, elotitos, tacos and mezcales, and the mole madre you taste beside a newer mole.

Balompié Café, San Francisco: my go-to place for pupusas. Get the queso con loroco and a Kolashampan. Two SF spots: 18th & Capp and 3801 Mission St.

Mensho Tokyo review: special ramen on Geary in the Tenderloin. The line is worth it. Their broth is special. Dinner only, Tue-Sun.

Plow review: the best brunch in San Francisco, in Potrero Hill. Lemon ricotta pancakes, the Chinese breakfast when they have it. No reservations; go early.
Check out my San Francisco restaurant guide for places I want to try next.
SF Restaurant Guide